A Brief History Behind Patriotic Costume Jewelry
With 250 years of history behind our nation this upcoming 4th of July, we would like to highlight the role of jewelry in the 20th century. The pieces shown in this article and on our website have been sourced by a private collector here in Texas, who has spent the last 35 years researching, acquiring, and caring for a multitude of vintage and antique jewelry.
Here at Antiques by Anna, we believe vintage costume jewelry is more than adornment–it is a connection to the past. Our mission is to preserve the history of costume jewelry, share the stories behind the pieces, and pass our knowledge on to future generations to ensure that the artistry and cultural significance of these artifacts continue to inspire the collectors and enthusiasts of current and upcoming generations.
Sweetheart Jewelry
“Sweetheart jewelry” sounds like a common phrase for romantic or heart-shaped jewelry today, but during World War I and II, and even up to present day, the term applied to a subset of patriotic jewelry. These sentimental pieces of jewelry were typically given to romantic partners or spouses before the service member was deployed, or could be sent home. Often decorated with hearts or the word “Sweetheart,” these sentimental bracelets, rings and necklaces could contain lockets with a photo or a patriotic seal. While girlfriends, wives, and other loved ones were working through the war, they would wear these pieces to show both patriotism and close connection to the American troops overseas.
Mothers and siblings were also the receivers of sweetheart jewelry. “Brother in Service” and specific pieces for mothers were common on the homefront. Typically, a mother wearing a piece with a start indicated she had one child in the military, with additional stars added if needed (Pamela Wiggins Siegel, Sweetheart Jewelry Sparkles with Love and Patriotism.) Lockets were also common for mothers and other family members to receive and wear.
Jewelry on the Homefront
Jewelry manufacturers were hit by war rationing just like every industry, and had to adapt to using less of their commonly used materials or new materials altogether. Bakelite, celluloid and wood took the place of pewter, silver or gold and were used to form pins and brooches displaying the nation’s colors. These brooches and pins commonly had slogans in place of gems or rhinestones, but made a fashionable statement for the Allied powers against the Axis during WWII. Brooches, pins, and necklaces.
From sentimental pieces of devotion to displaying patriotic colors in times of need, jewelry played an important role. During World War II, jewelry companies such as Joseff, Trifari and Eisenberg had to change their process or materials entirely, leading to unique pieces that have become collectable over time.
To see our collection of jewelry from the World Wars and beyond, check out our “Patriotic Jewelry” tab on our website!
Sources:
- America’s patriotic jewelry by Angi Butler
- Sweetheart Jewelry Sparkles with Love and Patriotism by Pamela Wiggins Siegel
- The fashion, patriotism, and romance of World War II sweetheart jewelry by Kathleen Golden, NMAH